Was passierte in der Show von Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello?

Saint Laurent geht zurück in die Zukunft, wo Post-New-Wave auf Science Fiction trifft.

Als Pariserin - wie immer wieder gesagt wurde - ist die Saint Laurent-Frau von Anthony Vaccarello überzeugend filmreif. Die erste Silhouette erinnert an eine junge Catherine Deneuve (bei der Show in der ersten Reihe) in François Truffauts "Le Dernier Métro". "Es beginnt alles mit der Konstruktion der Schulter. Die grafische und skulpturale Schneiderkunst lenkt die durchsetzungsstarke Raffinesse in die richtige Bahn, in ein befreites Begehren", kommentiert der Designer, dessen perfekte Herrenmäntel über taillierten Hosen mit Gürtel getragen werden. Der Stil, impulsiv, bürgerlich, dekadent im Sinne von "Studio 54", spielt sowohl mit Volumen als auch mit Kontrasten von Struktur und Fluidität.

Kaia Gerber trägt ein sehr kurzes Kleid, dass an den Schultern übergross geschnitten ist. Bei anderen Looks werden Mao-Kragenjacken aus Brokat oder Samt mit Röcken und leichten Shorts kombiniert. Die Stücke sind mit grossen Hosentaschen ausgestattet, was uns daran erinnert, dass die Saint Laurent-Frau nie anders über den Laufsteg gelaufen ist ausser ohne Tasche, die Hände in den Hosensäcken. Dies wird sich wohl auch in Zukunft durchsetzen. Stichwort Zukunft: Diese wurde am Ende der Show symbolisch umgesetzt. Mit einem LED-Korridor, in dem sich alle, ob in Feder-Kleidern, mit Brillen oder fluoreszierenden Pumps, in leuchtende Nachtvögel verwandelten, und ihre Sci-Fiction-Gefieder zur Schau stellten. Utopie oder Dystopie?

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